Day 13 Tuesday 3 February Grytviken South Georgia

Our ship arrived in Grytviken, South Georgia at 8.00am and anchored in a sheltered inlet.  

Grytviken is the site of a historic whaling station which closed in 1966.  There are no permanent residents in Grytviken, but there are occasional researchers and British administrative and military personnel.  There are several structures on the site - a warehouse, Whaler's Church, museum and a functioning Post Office.

Our morning involved a zodiac landing - a "wet" landing this time, so our muck boots were definitely going in the water.  We kitted ourselves up - lots of gear as it was cold outside (about 4 degrees C).  Felt like Scott of the Antarctic.  Hopefully a better outcome.

As we approached the shore in the zodiacs, we could hear these mournful cries.  

Thought it was seabirds, but then realised the noise came from fur seals and their pups cavorting in the water.  The whaling station and its rusting equipment has become a home for the fur seals, King penguins and elephant seals.

We were instructed to keep a good 5 metres away from the wildlife. Not easily done. Some of the seal pups were very curious and had no fear.  They insisted on trying to get close.  We were instructed to wave our arms about or make some noise to deter their curiosity.

                                                            Cuteness overload

                                                         Female elephant seals

                                                            Pilates anyone !

                                                                 Good guys ?

We visited the cemetery where the remains of the great Antarctic explorer, Ernest Shackleton, are located.  Also the ashes of Frank Wild, who was Shackleton's first mate.  His plaque describes him as Shackleton's "right hand man".

We sent ourselves a postcard from the Post Office.  Will it beat us home ?

The small museum was actually rather good.

Once back on board, we spent the afternoon in the Explorer's Lounge, enjoying the panoramic views.

We also indulged in afternoon tea at Mamsen's Cafe.

Our ship sailed late afternoon on its way to Fortuna Bay.  An announcement came over the speakers about huge numbers of humpback whales feeding all around the ship.  We could see the puffs of water from their blowholes.  The captain changed course so we could enjoy the spectacle.  The challenge was to photograph their tails as they dived under the water.

                                                           This was no fluke !

Day 12 Monday 2 February South Atlantic Ocean

 Another sailing day on our way to South Georgia Island.  The crew had a safety drill in the morning, dealing with a fire which had started in the laundry!  The passengers were not involved in the drill and were able to watch the crew scurrying about.

We saw our first iceberg in the morning, from our cabin window.  It was a non-tabular iceberg (meaning not of square sides).  In other words, it had jagged edges.

We finished the day at Manfredi's Restaurant.  This was our one allocated booking.  Very nice food.  Stephen's dinner involved a large slab of meat!

Day 11 Sunday 1 February South Atlantic Ocean

This was a sailing day on our way to South Georgia Island.  Not a day of rest however.  There was a mandatory South Georgia briefing.  Some very strict rules apply to landing in South Georgia.  There was another biosecurity inspection of our outerwear (boots, gloves, bags, jackets etc) if we had worn these items in the Falkland Islands.  Velcro is a particular enemy of biosecurity as it can catch seeds, spores, dirt, small particles.  This check is undertaken on the lower deck of the ship.  The very vigilant staff use a miners light to examine your stuff, and have a range of picks, brushes and cleaners to scour your clothing etc.

Day 10 Saturday 31 January Port Stanley Falkland Islands

 The Falkland Islands are a British Overseas Territory some 300 miles off the Argentinian coast.  About 180 bird species call these islands home.  British traditions remain in Port Stanley.  Locals take teatime and gather in pubs!

Our first adventure of the day was to see the penguins of Bluff Cove Lagoon, a privately-owned nature reserve.  There were white-sand beaches and a large lagoon, which is home to more than 1,000 breeding pairs of gentoo penguins and a growing colony of king penguins.  Terns, geese and skuas can also be found on the beach.

                                                               King penguins

                                                     Gentoo penguin chicks

A fellow traveller, Laura, captured this rermarkable footage of an exuberant young penguin.

                      

                       

We had a very tasty morning tea at the Sea Cabbage Cafe.  

We chose the scones with Diddle Dee jam (a small local berry) and fresh farm cream.

There was a small museum at the Lagoon.

Back in Port Stanley, we visited the cemetery which has 33 Commonwealth war burials.

Port Stanley's Christ Church Cathedral with the distinctive Whalebone Arch in its garden.  This is the world's southernmost Anglican cathedral.

                                                          A little bit of Britain

                                            

                                                The 1982 Liberation Memorial

                                                      Government House

                            In commemoration of the Battle of the Falkland Islands 1914.

                                                    Historic Dockland Museum

Day 9 Friday 30 January West Point Island Falkland Islands

 We got to land - on West Point Island, part of the Falkland Islands.  Because of the weather, the program has been modified.  The early scouting crew from the ship found the landing site completely fogged in and visibility nil.  Changes were made.  This will be the pattern of our travels.  The weather rules !!

Once the weather cleared sufficiently, we were off.  Our first experience of a zodiac landing.  This however was to be a "dry" landing.  Meaning there was a nice pier waiting for us at the other end.  We didn't have to wade through water - this time.

West Point Island is a private island established as a sheep farm in 1879.  It is also a significant Bird and Biodiversity Area.  Bird species include the Falkland steamer duck, black-browed albatross, southern rockhopper penguin and Magellanic penguin.

Our destination was a small colony of Magellanic penguins.

Before our return to the ship, we visited the farmhouse to enjoy tea and homemade cakes.