Day 26 Orkney Islands 12 May 2018

Today we are hopeful that the weather will be kind to us. Here we are at the northern tip of Scotland. With any luck today should be a highlight of the trip. Yesterday the ferry didn’t run because it was too rough. A little overcast it wasn’t too bad and the passenger ferry from the port of John O’Groats takes about an hour to get there. Our guide Martin has lived on the island for three years and began there as a bus driver. When the locals hopped on and told him their destination he had no idea what they were saying as they speak in Gaelic. Rather than seem stupid he would just tell them the fare was a pound. It didn’t help that the local knowledge that the village of St Mary’s Hope is locally referred to as Ham.   

Scapa Flow has been a major naval for the British Navy. At the end of World War 1, while awaiting the conclusion of the Treaty of Versailles during 1919 the German Fleet decided to scuttle their ships rather than surrender. Fighting broke out and some 9 Germans were killed when the British tried to prevent the scuttling. That’s why the local war memorial has a 1914-19 as the date on it.

During WW2 the Germans sent a U Boat into Scapa Flow to attack the British fleet. There were many block ships sunk to prevent this from happening.  There was one spot unguarded and there had been a delay in sinking the ship, as the government was still arguing over the price. The fleet was out except the WW1 Royal Oak which was too slow and was a training ship largely for boys. The U-Boat fired four torpedoes of which three left the vessel, two missed and the third hit the anchor chain. This alerted the British but they did not know what happened. The scend salvo was more successful and the ship was sank with 830 lives, mostly boys.

 Scapa Flow

During the war Italian POWs were used to work to build what were called Churchill barriers which also had the advantage of linking the islands. They initially rightly refused, as it was war work. It was explained to them that it was to help the farmers get produce to market and given more rations.  They agreed. In their spare time they built a chapel. It is quite remarkable, what they did with concrete, paint, bully beef tins and old vehicle springs. It is unique.  

Geographically the islands are subject to strong winds, these can last a month. They  have recorded 136 mph but the anemometer broke at that point.  Trees don’t generally grow here because it is too windy, but where they do grow, houses are actually windbreaks for trees. It's so windy that Orkney women only have two hair styles...a nor'wester or a sou'wester The islands are 5 degrees warmer than the rest of the UK because of the warm Gulf Stream current.   It doesn't now there despite being on the same latitude as Moscow.

They are self-sufficient in power by using wind farms. They actually have to shut them off as they supply power to the mainland but they were supplying so much power the cable melted.

Our visit to Skara Brae was an eye opener. We had no idea that it was right on the coast. It has been a highlight of the trip.

Now it was the Ring of Brognar, originally 60 stones but now 27. Its purpose is unknown but we think it was for festivals/meetings as the stone materials are different and each represent different clans.

The capital Lerwick has the impressive St Magnus Cathedral which is the most northerly cathedral in the UK. We also visited the local museum which was quite good but we didn’t have much time to spend there. 

More sheep than humans live in the Orkneys.

We did witness a Blackening. What happens is when someone gets married the men go around in a ute drinking, banging the sides and throwing filth at each other. The girls do exactly the same.